Postcards From Alaska introduces KNLS listeners to America's last frontier and is a daily feature of the New Life Station.

The Other Emerald Isle

In Alaska, words such as "spectacular" and "awe-inspiring" tumble easily and often from the mouths of travelers. But Kodiak Island earns more superlatives than just about any place in Alaska.

The crabs pulled from the waters surrounding the island in Southwest Alaska are the meatiest in the state. The salmon runs are incredibly rich. And the bears are the largest on the continent.

Big bears and plump fish aren't all the island has to offer. Culturally diverse, lush and more temperate than much of the rest of the state, Kodiak is Alaska's gem. And that's no exaggeration.

"'Exotic is the way visitors always describe the island," said Pam Foreman, executive director of the Kodiak Island Convention & Visitors Bureau. "Blue water, plush forests, tons of wildlife, and the richness that comes from different cultures all living in one place - what more would one want?"

Situated in the Gulf of Alaska, Kodiak Island is the largest of dozens of islands that cover an area the size of Connecticut. But two-thirds is a national wildlife refuge and not accessible by road. The city of Kodiak, the largest community on the island with a population just over 7,600, is surprisingly cosmopolitan. Kodiak is 252 miles southwest of Anchorage and a one-hour flight by jet.

A mild maritime climate insulates the island, encouraging rich sea life and a lush blanket of vegetation. The green is so intense; Kodiak Island is called the Emerald Isle. And all that green is stretched over a landscape of jagged peaks, fjords and wide valleys.

Nature certainly defines Kodiak, but the history of its people is as rich. The Russian explorers who fell upon Kodiak in the mid-1700s made it the capital of Russian Alaska and built the island into a major trading center. Today, visitors find a taste of this history in Kodiak and in six other villages on the island. A Russian Orthodox Church makes for a fascinating tour. As does an historic otter pelt warehouse, built by entrepreneur Alexander Baranof, which today serves as the Baranov Museum.

The Russians' move into Kodiak was not without conflict. In the mid-1700s, over 20,000 Alutiiq Eskimos lived on the island. The two groups fought deadly battles. Russian traders and merchants introduced new diseases to the indigenous population. Museums, cultural centers and research into more than 800 archaeological sites - including rare petroglyphs - are part of an on-going effort to strengthen the region's Native heritage.

The island's six villages are accessible by scheduled or charter commuter air carriers, easily arranged in Kodiak. A visit offers a unique blend of Alutiiq, Russian and Scandinavian cultures.

Kodiak, wiped out by a volcano in 1912 and hit hard by a massive 1964 earthquake, emerged from natural disasters a compact and urban city. Travelers can pick up both backcountry guides and a copy of The Paris Review at a local bookstore, arrange a trip to watch bears and enjoy sophisticated seafood dishes all within a few blocks.

The city's military history is another attraction. A major staging area during World War II, Kodiak offers military buffs a chance to tour sites like Miller Point bunker, a concrete bunker featuring a series of small turrets where servicemen peered through slits, watching the sea for signs of enemy ships.

Today, about 15,000 people live on Kodiak Island, many of them in the fishing business. With 2,600 vessels and an annual harvest exceeding $80 million, Kodiak is one of the largest commercial fishing ports in the nation.

But for most visitors, wildlife - in particular, Kodiak brown bears - define the island's image. Kodiak Island affords unmatched opportunity to watch the huge bruins. They're so common that most tour guides confidently guarantee that visitors will see a bear.

About 3,000 brown bears, the coastal cousins of the grizzly, live in the Kodiak archipelago. When they first come out of hibernation in the spring, the bears feed on plants and berries. They soon turn to river runs of abundant salmon that return from the ocean to spawn in the summer. Biologists credit the abundance and concentration of salmon runs for the bears' superior size.

Experienced floatplane pilots fly over rivers choked with spawning salmon, knowing they'll spot bears. Using planes equipped with floats, pilots land on nearby lakes or wide spots in the river so their clients can safely watch the animals from the plane.

Humans like to fish Kodiak's waters, too. Year-round fishing offers anglers deep-sea and streamside opportunities for halibut, five species of salmon, trophy rainbow trout, steelhead and Dolly Varden. 

To experience the true wilderness, rent a cabin. Depending on the location, some include use of a small fishing boat, fuel, propane and a banya, an Alaskan Native steam-bath house.

Sea kayaking is a novel way to explore the ever-changing tidal flats in and around Kodiak Island. Paddlers come close to Steller sea lions, sea otter and often see whales. 

And if fishing or kayaking don't suit you, consider bird watching. Shorelines are bordered by craggy cliffs that migrating sea birds use to nest. Over 200 species have been identified in the archipelago and sightings of birds such as golden-crowned sparrows, Wilson's warblers, winter wrens and water pipits are common. Colorful sea birds including tufted puffins, black-legged kittiwakes, Steller and king eiders and harlequin ducks thrive in the water surrounding the islands.

For information on Kodiak Island businesses who operate tours and trips contact the Kodiak Island Convention & Visitors Bureau at (907) 486-4782 (e-mail: kicvb@ptialaska.net) or visit the web site at http://www.kodiak.org.

For national park information, contact the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge at (907) 487-2600.

For Alaska Visitor Information write to: Dept. 712, P.O. Box 196710, Anchorage, AK 99519-6710. Also 800 862-5275 or visit the web site: http://apr.travelalaska.com

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